Tokyo with our JaPals

Some more bad plane planning meant that we had a bit of a ridiculous journey to Japan – it took us over 24 hours to get there from Kota Kinabalu and included lengthy stops in Singapore airport (which was great!) and Manila airport (not so great, in fact, pretty terrible). Still, we arrived in Japan eventually and were very excited to be reunited with our homies, Paul and Edith Speller there! They had arrived a little earlier and expertly scoped out a sensible meeting space in the labrinth that is Ikebukuro station (and shopping centre) and then had a short walk to our AirBnB from there. After dumping stuff and settling in a little we headed back out to a nice food market on the top of a nearby shopping centre that Paul and Edith had found earlier in the day where we got our first taste of proper, delicious, Japanese food (lots more of that later).

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Rooftop eateries in Ikebukuro

The next day we had a look around a swanky shopping district including the flagship stores of some that we are fans of at home (Uniqlo, Sony etc). We then had THE MOST AMAZING VEGGIE RAMEN from Tokyo station – it was so so good and is still up there with one of our favourite foods OF THE WHOLE TRIP.

After looking around Tokyo Station, which is huge and full of exciting shops, we headed to the Tokyo International Forum which was a really cool building.

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Impressive Tokyo International Forum building

After some refreshments in a nice cafe there we headed off back to Ikebukuro to visit J World – a sort of mini theme park that features themed areas and rides based on Shonen Jump Manga – where Lloyd could fulfill all his Dragonball Dreamz.

The next day we visited the Tokyo Metropolitan building – for the local government boffins in the group. We had a really good guided tour of parts of the huge complex (which included two tall towers and an assembly building) – it was impressive hearing about the various governance structures for a city the size of Tokyo. We also got some great views!

Afterwards we headed to Shinjuku Gyoen, a beautiful park and gardens.

Low on energy after a hot stroll around the gardens we did what any sensible group of adults would do…. sought out the all you can eat dessert extravaganza – Sweets Paradise. That’s right, for just over an hour you can stuff your face with as much cake, ice cream, pop corn, chocolate fountain and other disgusting goodness as you can manage. It was delicious, and included was a sugar high that had us all crying with laughter about Lloyd sneaking his leftovers to the bin in the bathroom so we didn’t have to pay more…. I think you had to be there.

Afterwards, while still riding the sugar high we returned to the Metropolitan Building to take in the evening’s views and then had a great time in one of the hundreds of late night games arcades in Tokyo.

The next day was Edith’s birthday! After opening presents in the morning we headed to the Senso-ji Temple which also had a lovely garden surrounding it.

We also enjoyed the market leading to the temple there and discovering the winner of ‘Best Bun of the Trip’ – melon pans.

As Edith was king for the day, it all got a bit feline afterwards as we headed to a cat themed café that made incredible 3D foam cattés. (Gifs to follow – tech problems)

Feeling refreshed we headed off to Akhehabra to visit a particular shop that stocked old/vintage games (Super Potato!) and have a look around the area. After that we headed off to Sega Joypolis where Edith got unlimited free rides as it was her birthday! It was a sort of indoor theme park with Sega game themed rides and other attractions – we particularly enjoyed the augmented reality mirror stations.

The next day we had a very special treat lined up – a visit to the Studio Ghibli Museum! We had had to book the tickets months in advance because it always sells out and this was a little tricky as you have to buy them through an agent if you’re not in Japan and so expectations were high, but it was SO WORTH IT. What a magical place – designed by Hayao Miyazaki, a trip there is like stepping into one of the films, it is beautifully decorated with lots of little details throughout, like soot sprites in the corners and even a giant catbus soft play area! Photographs are not allowed inside but we were able to take some of the outdoor areas:

Afterwards we spent a bit of time at a local festival in the park next door where we were treated to some excellent street food and a rather odd rendition of ‘Do you hear the people sing?’ from Les Mis…

We stopped in at the Nakano Broadway shopping centre on the way back which housed lots of interesting things including an ice cream bar where you could eat every flavour piled into one cone (photo to be added!) and lots of antique and retro Japanese toys. To finish the day off we headed to the famous Shibuya Crossing which was quite an experience which required us to keep a firm hold of our “crossing buddies”.

On our final day in Tokyo we travelled a little out of town to visit Zoorasia in Yokohama. One of Japan’s newest zoos, and known to be one of the best for animal welfare it is also home to Zuppi, a bus that tours the park which is shaped like an OKAPI – an exciting prospect for all of us but especially for Paul who is World #1 Okapi Fan.

After a very excitable ride with Zuppi we enjoyed looking around the rest of the zoo which housed lots of animals including some real Okapis. It was very hot, even some of the African animals were suffering (see sleepy cheetah below!).

After the zoo we managed to fit in a quick trip to the Pokemon shop before returning to our Air BnB to pack before heading off on the first of our rail pass adventures!

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Lloydchu

We really loved Tokyo, it’s a huge exciting city with a lot going on, we could have easily filled twice as much time there!

Sabah and the King of the Swingers

Some poor plane planning meant that it felt like we spent more of our time in Sabah (Malaysian Borneo) on buses than terra firma, however we saw enough to know we want to go back!

We landed in the middle of the night and so arrived very late at the lovely Faloe Hostel, where our host greeted us very warmly and sent us straight to bed, promising to sort out payments etc in the morning! More-or-less first thing we got up and headed straight out to the bus station to get the bus to Sandakan – a journey that was supposed to take seven hours but of course ended up taking much longer. We were treated to beautiful scenery and moody mountains along the way, and a very dodgy copy of Guardians of the Galaxy 2 on the bus’ little TV! We were very pleased to arrive at our accommodation, the Sepilok Forest Edge Resort, which was also really lovely, we wished we had longer than 1 night!

 

We were up early the next day to visit the Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre (the reason for the very long bus journey!) and the Sun Bear Rescue Centre – they were definitely worth the trip! We got there early, for the first feeding, but actually had the best experience on the way out, when we walked past back the feeding platform and everyone else had gone apart from a couple of the staff who hushed us on arrival (I was doing my best!) – we then saw a mother orangutan and her two offspring taking advantage of the peace and quiet to get some food! It was so much better than earlier in the day when it was very crowded. We also really enjoyed the orangutan nursery where the young toddler, often orphaned, orangutans are taught how to play, walk and feed themselves.

 

After the morning feed we went across the road to visit the Sun Bear Sanctuary. All of the bears there had been either rescued or surrendered from horrible conditions – we were told by the staff that often people get them as pets because they make very cute cubs, but of course, they then grow up into wild bears and their owners keep them in small cages and do not look after them properly. It was really sad reading some of their stories but lovely to see them being so well looked after and enjoying themselves! When we first arrived, three of the sun bears were playing on the same tree, chasing each other up and down! We also saw some more of the adult bears in the other areas of the sanctuary.

 

We returned to the orangutans for the afternoon feeding time and had another close encounter with the orange kind! While quietly watching the feeding platform I caught the eye of another spectator who was frantically waving at me and pointing, I whirled round to come almost face to face with one of our orange furry friends! She was walking along the railing, taking a short cut to the platform! The staff at the sanctuary are very careful to ensure the tourists don’t touch the orangutans, they can sometimes get sick from illnesses carried by us but also need to be used to living in the wild, and so we all had to jump back and let her go her own way – king of the swingers indeed!

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That evening we traveled to Sandakan, the nearest town to Sepilok. It was an ok place, the waterfront was picturesque but smelly and very polluted with litter. We went to the cinema that night to see the new Spiderman which was an interesting experience as we discovered some of the sarcastic/ironic humour didn’t really translate and we were often the only pair laughing! We didn’t have much time there the next day but had a look around the town and then visited the English Tea House on top of the hill for afternoon tea (which was authentic, but not very good quality, dry sandwiches and a tiny cup of tea? Pfft!)

We then got the bus back to Kota Kinabalu, another very long journey this time accompanied by back to back Fast and Furious movies – not really what you want to watch on windy dark roads!

We had a couple of days in KK before our long journey to Japan so we spent time exploring the city – we visited the Sabah State museum, the night market by the river and the beautiful City Mosque.

We really loved Sabah and wish we could have stayed longer – there was lots more to explore and the people were some of the kindest and friendliest we’d met, from groups of young people shouting ‘Hello!’ to us in the street to taxi drivers asking about football and Brexit. We wish we’d flown into Sandakan (instead of the two big buses!) and had longer in the Sepilok Forest Edge Resort by skipping Sandakan. We will be back!

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One of our favourite photos – Fishing in Kota Kinabalu

 

A few days in Kuala Lumpur 

From Singapore we got the bus to Kuala Lumpur – it was supposed to be faster than the train and there were works that meant the train may have been much more complicated too. The bus itself didn’t take as long as crossing the border on foot which was quite an experience – there was a substantial queue waiting to leave Singapore, and then we got back onto the bus, crossed the bridge and then queued again to enter Malaysia at the other side. Eventually we made it to KL and our lovely hostel which was on the 20-somethingth floor and had amazing views of the city and Petronas towers.

Kuala Lumpur was probably one of our least favourite places – we just didn’t really click with it, which in a way was reassuring because we were beginning to think we just loved everywhere because we were having such a great time! We still managed to see some great sights in and around the city:

We spent one evening atop a sky scraper on a bar that’s a working helipad in the day! It offered excellent view of the city skyline at sunset and a nice place to relax for the evening.

In an attempt to see more of the city for free we visited the ‘eco forest’ with treetop walkway – the park was a little disappointing although it was on top of a hill so the walkway had some nice views. That afternoon we also visited the Malaysia Telekom Museum which offered a really interesting overview of telecommunications in Malaysia – and some much needed aircon!

We also spent some time shopping (and haggling) our way around the Central Market market. Lots of nice craft and souvenirs and outside there was another huge outdoor market where you could buy knock-off versions of most brands (I got some ‘Birkenstocks’ for a very good price!). We also visited another night market which was a really interesting experience – we were hoping to get some good street food in the Hawker Centre there, however there weren’t many veggie options so that didn’t really work out! It was good fun looking around the market and seeing where the locals do their food shopping and we did find some interesting street food puddings!

One evening we got a bit closer to the famous Petronas Towers to watch their fountain and light show – which even included a Celine Dion section!

One day we headed to the Museum of Islamic Art which it turned out was an ‘eck of a journey by Kuala Lumpur’s terrible public transport, but it was definitely worth it! The building itself is very striking and near the equally impressive National Mosque of Malaysia. Inside there is a huge collection of Islamic art, clothing, jewellery and a really good display with models of important mosques and other buildings from around the world.

By far the best day in Kuala Lumpur was out visit to the Batu Caves. After quite a climb the top (accompanied by more macaques!), past the huge golden statue of Lord Murugan we arrived inside the huge cave which has a few dioramas of Hindu stories and at the back (up more stairs!) is a temple where worshippers were singing and playing music.

Sky trees and oddities

Stepping off the plane in Singapore was like landing on another planet after the dusty chaos that is Bali. We were delighted by shiny clean floors and toilets, and a very cheap airport transfer bus, that we didn’t even have to haggle for! We arrived quite late to our hostel and so didn’t appreciate what a good pick it was until the next day – we can highly recommend it! It was really great, very clean and comfortable, with helpful staff and breakfast included – it was called Bunc Hostel.

On our first day in there we visited the Botanic Gardens which were really lovely – although very hot and humid!

Then we went to visit the famous Sky Trees – they did not disappoint! We got there early enough to have a good look around before the nightly light and music show which was brilliant!

The following day there were a couple of city walks we had hoped to do but the stifling heat and humidity soon put a stop to that and turned our brains to mush. A bit stuck for things to do we opted for a long ride on (air conditioned) public transport to an attraction that definitely wins the Harpton award for Strangest Place of the Trip – Haw Par Villa.

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The entrance to the park

Constructed by one of the Tiger Balm brothers as a gift for the other, the villa was a luxury residence with beautiful views over the city. So far, so good, right? In the grounds of the villa, however, they also built a theme park, to be open to the public with the aim of teaching children and young people stories that would help them learn to be good people. The result is a huge collection of very colourful, but not always life like, statues and dioramas depicting tales from Chinese folklore.

The highlight of the park is a cave structure which had more of these sculptures, depicting the ’10 Courts of Hell’ – detailing and vividly illustrating the punishments that would await criminals and those deemed to be generally badly behaved in the afterlife. The following pictures are only really the tip of the wacky iceberg that became our favourite sight in Singapore. More information here: Visiting Singapore – Haw Par Villa

That night we enjoyed a free concert of film music (which turned out to be mainly Studio Ghibli music which was especially welcomed by us!) by a local youth ensemble in the Opera House. From there we met up with the lovely Fran, my friend from London, who showed us the sights and treated us to dinner. We also managed to wangle our way up to the top of the Marina Bay Sands hotel for some spectacular views. It was really great to see her and hear about the city from a local!

We spent the rest of our time in Singapore exploring the heritage buildings in downtown, the old Parliament building and National Gallery which had undergone a huge and impressive renovation which involved joining together two beautiful old billings (the former Supreme Court and City Hall) with a modern but sympathetic atrium space. There’s a really good timeline of the history of the buildings here and more info about the renovation here. There were also lovely views of the city from the roof.

We also enjoyed looking around some of the Temples in China town, including the Buddha Tooth Relic temple, and Kong Meng San Phor Kark See Monastery.

For our last day in Singapore we visited Sentosa – an island linked to the mainland by a monorail which is home to the Universal Studios resort and some very nice beaches from where you can stand at the most southern point in the northern  hemisphere. The beach was very nice although in the water there was the only place in Singapore that we saw litter, and the whole island felt quite artificial.

We had been warned by other travellers that Singapore was very expensive but generally we didn’t find it so – the public transport is excellent and very cheap (and of course, clean and tidy!) and we got good cheap eats in food courts, hawker houses and a delicious £2 Dosai in Little India! We really enjoyed our time there and I think there was much more to see!

Hawker House
Quite different to Street Feast’s Hawker House!